theGrio Style Guide: Back to Black for NYFW Fall-Winter 2023

Amid the chilly winter air of New York City, things were heating up on the fashion runways as the industry The post theGrio Style Guide: Back to Black for NYFW Fall-Winter 2023 appeared first on TheGrio.

Feb 18, 2023 - 08:00

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theGrio Style Guide: Back to Black for NYFW Fall-Winter 2023

This week in fashion: unpacking Pharrell’s new role at Louis Vuitton menswear, Bethann Hardison to be honored at the NAACP Awards and more.

Amid the chilly winter air of New York City, things were heating up on the fashion runways as the industry gathered for this season’s New York Fashion Week. As previously reported by the Grio, both veteran and rising Black designers presented their Fall-Winter 2023 collections in showrooms and catwalks across the city.

As looks were served on the runways, looks were equally served by attendees. This year, Lil Nas X and Teyana Taylor turned heads as they sat front row at LaQuan Smith and Thom Browne’s presentations, each dressed by the designers to reflect this season’s runways. Unlike the extravagant, fantasy-driven silhouettes seen over the past few years, designers are shifting to more sensible, wearable styles this season, reflecting much of the minimalism of the late ’90s and early aughts. After several seasons of whimsical fashion trends filled with bright colors, feathers, and platforms, and escapism from a bleak reality, this season, many designers opted to remix simple, classic cuts and hues to create collections reflecting a stylish return to the otherwise mundane. But don’t get it twisted; as always, Black designers made a statement.

BruceGlen

The BruceGlen twins took attendees to church while debuting their collection, “The Sermon.” Grammy-winning Maverick City’s Naomi Raine opened the show with a performance of the song “Order my Steps,” which served as the perfect kickoff to the brand’s vibrant and uniquely crafted showcase.

Bruce Glen – Runway – February 2023 New York Fashion Week: The Shows

NEW YORK, NEW YORK – FEBRUARY 13: Designers Bruce and Glen Proctor walk the runway for Bruce Glen during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Mezzanine at Spring Studios on February 13, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Noam Galai/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows)

Bruce Glen – Runway – February 2023 New York Fashion Week: The Shows

NEW YORK, NEW YORK – FEBRUARY 13: A singer walks the runway for Bruce Glen during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Mezzanine at Spring Studios on February 13, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Noam Galai/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows)

Bruce Glen – Runway – February 2023 New York Fashion Week: The Shows

NEW YORK, NEW YORK – FEBRUARY 13: A model walks the runway for Bruce Glen during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Mezzanine at Spring Studios on February 13, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Noam Galai/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows)

Bruce Glen – Runway – February 2023 New York Fashion Week: The Shows

NEW YORK, NEW YORK – FEBRUARY 13: Models walk the runway for Bruce Glen during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Mezzanine at Spring Studios on February 13, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Noam Galai/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows)

Bruce Glen – Runway – February 2023 New York Fashion Week: The Shows

Dur Doux

Dur Doux’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection is, in a word, fun. The abundance of abstract prints, red floral print, resort wear silhouettes and colors like yellow, green, and gold will make the transition from the balmy summer to fall that much easier.

Frederick Anderson

Lace, crochet, and silk were constants in an exciting and sultry Frederick Anderson Fall/Winter 2023 collection. Plunging necklines, dramatic halter silhouettes, and a primary palette of black, plum and pale blue give this collection a romantic, stylish vibe harkening back to the ’70s.

House of Aama

A label deeply inspired by Caribbean culture, House of Aama presented “Prelude: Aama Tales.” With the essence of Jamaican culture weaved into each piece, the collection featured crocheted bucket hats, bold colorblocking, flared sleeves, ruffles, and more.

LaQuan Smith

Featuring sleek tuxedos, blazer-inspired minidresses, fur looks, and tailored trousers, LaQuan Smith’s Fall/Winter collection remixed classic tailoring and workwear looks. Alongside his always covetable womenswear line, Smith debuted menswear pieces for the first time during his show at The Rainbow Room.

Luar

Themes of the futuristic and voluminous reigned supreme in Luar’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection, which featured baggy fur hoodies, otherworldly double-breasted maxi trenchcoats, and puffy bombers in brooding hues. Clingy gowns, capes, and opera gloves rounded out the athlesisure-meets-night-at-the-opera feel.

Sergio Hudson

’80s and ’90s style (complete with highlighter-bright shades and shoulder pads) exploded across the graffiti-printed runway during Sergio Hudson’s ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2023 show. Hudson has become known for his suits, and his newest collection demonstrates why. Plaid, hot pink, lime green, and denim adorned suit jackets with matching skirts while dresses in bold prints and silhouettes sashayed past the star-studded front row.

Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter Ready to Wear 2023

Models walk the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)

Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter 2023

Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter Ready to Wear 2023

Model at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)

Sergio Hudson Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023

Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter Ready to Wear 2023

A model walks the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)

Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter Ready to Wear 2023

A model walks the runway during the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)

Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter Ready to Wear 2023

Models walk the runway during the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)

Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter Ready to Wear 2023

A model walks the Sergio Hudson show during New York Fashion Week at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Al Zeta/WireImage)

Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter Ready to Wear 2023

A model walks the Sergio Hudson show during New York Fashion Week at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Al Zeta/WireImage)

Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter Ready to Wear 2023 attendees

Bethann Hardison and Kimora Lee Simmons attend Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Sean Zanni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)

Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter Ready to Wear 2023 attendees

Kendra Bailey, Keisha McCloud and Savannah Smith attend Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Sean Zanni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)

Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter Ready to Wear 2023 attendees

Kysre Gondrezick and Keli Goff attend Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Sean Zanni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)

Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter Ready to Wear 2023 attendees

Guest, Kimora Lee Simmons, Sunny Hostin, Tiffany D. Cross and Joy-Ann Reid attend Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Sean Zanni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)

Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter Ready to Wear 2023 attendees

Patina Miller, Zerina Akers, guest, Dee Miller and guest attend Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Sean Zanni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)

Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter Ready to Wear 2023

A model walks the Sergio Hudson show during New York Fashion Week at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Al Zeta/WireImage)

Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter Ready to Wear 2023

A model walks the Sergio Hudson show during New York Fashion Week at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Al Zeta/WireImage)

Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter Ready to Wear 2023

Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter Ready to Wear2023

Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter Ready to Wear 2023

Sergio Hudson takes a bow on the runway at the Sergio Hudson Collection 11 Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Spring Studios on February 11, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Michael Ostuni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)

Sergio Hudson Fall/Winter Ready to Wear 2023

Sukeina

Designer Omar Salam dressed up traditional business casual silhouettes with chunky gold statement zippers, sequin and sheer collared shirts, and colored fur accents. A palette of gray, black, and mustard carry Sukeina’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection, with the color fuschia becoming a standout in a dramatic structural skirt moment.

Tiffany Brown Design

Both contemporary and functional, Tiffany Brown Designs’ 2023 Fall/Winter collection offered yet another twist on the designer’s seasonal monochromatic color palette. This season, Brown focused on various shades of grey, her collection showcasing both dramatic and subtle menswear and womenswear silhouettes.

Influencer Denzel Dion goes from front row to center stage at NYFW

Influencers and influencer culture continue to revolutionize the fashion, beauty, and lifestyle industries. This year, influencer-turned-designer Denzel Dion, who launched his label NOID in 2020, made his NYFW debut. Showcasing the brand’s “Introspection” collection, filled with rich dark shades, colorblocking, and fur accents, the presentation felt like a graduation for Dion, who has been frequenting the fashion world for years.

Fashion trailblazer Bethann Hardison to be honored at 54th NAACP Image Awards luncheon and fashion show

Bethann Hardison, NAACP Awards theGrio.com — (Photo by Monica Schipper/WireImage)

American fashion model, activist, and New York culture behemoth Bethann Hardison is having a great month. As previously reported by theGrio, after the Sundance premiere of Hardison’s documentary “Invisible Beauty,” which chronicles her life and ascent in the fashion world, February kicked off with Hardison receiving the Fifteen Percent Pledge’s Pioneer Award during the nonprofit’s annual gala. And after spending New York Fashion Week appearing front row at all of the season’s hottest fashion shows during , Hardison will soon become the recipient of the NAACP’s Vanguard Award.

According to a release, Hardison will receive the Vanguard Award during the upcoming “54th NAACP Image Awards Images: Fashion Moments in Time” event, slated to take place Thursday, February 23, in Los Angeles.

Pharrell’s new role with Louis Vuitton sparks controversy

Pharrell Williams, Louis Vuitton, Virgil Albloh, Pharrell Louis Vuitton Controversy theGrio.com — (Photo by Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images)

This week, Louis Vuitton announced Pharrell Williams as its new creative director of menswear, and many in the industry had mixed feelings about the prestigious new appointment. Despite being behind well-known streetwear brands like Billionaire Boys Club, industry experts and fashion fans alike have called Williams’ appointment a marketing ploy, given his celebrity status and lack of formal fashion design training.

Williams will be succeeding the late Virgil Abloh, the first Black American to serve as artistic director of a French luxury brand. Like Williams, Abloh, an architect by training, did not study fashion but worked his way up in the industry through fashion competitions, internships, collaborations, and more, all of which eventually led to him building an empire and a loyal fanbase.

Although Williams already has both a substantial fanbase and experience in streetwear, as well as past long-term collaborative relationships with both Chanel and Adidas, his celebrity status caused many to question Louis Vuitton’s intentions behind the appointment. Most significantly, some experts considered the decision a slap in the face to skilled Black fashion designers who had been rumored to be in the running, like Martine Rose, Grace Wales Bonner, Ib Kamara, Maximilian Davis, and Tremaine Emory.

“I love Pharrell, but no,” tweeted fashion editor Shelton Boyd-Griffith. “I’d much rather take a young design grad or in-house designer…. Please, let’s go back to trained designers designing.”

On the other hand, fashion historian Shelby Ivey Christie arguedon Twitter that Williams’ “impact on hype style [and] culture is undeniable.”

Only time will tell what the luxury fashion house will look like with Pharrell’s leadership. But, it is fair to say that there are several Black designers whose skillsets and portfolios would have made them great fits for the role.

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