Is Your Gel Manicure Safe? The Debate Over Banned Nail Polish
In a landmark decision, the European Union has banned trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), a chemical commonly used in gel nail polishes, effective September 1, 2025. This move stems from safety concerns highlighted by animal studies, which linked TPO to potential reproductive risks. However, experts argue that these studies involved high-dose exposures that differ significantly from real-world cosmetic use.
In a landmark decision, the European Union has banned trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), a chemical commonly used in gel nail polishes, effective September 1, 2025. This move stems from safety concerns highlighted by animal studies, which linked TPO to potential reproductive risks. However, experts argue that these studies involved high-dose exposures that differ significantly from real-world cosmetic use.
TPO, a photoinitiator, plays a crucial role in hardening gel polish under UV light. While the EU adopts a hazard-based regulatory approach—focusing on a chemical’s inherent properties—the U.S. follows a risk-based model, considering both hazard and exposure likelihood. This divergence means TPO remains legal in the U.S., with no federal ban anticipated.TPO, a photoinitiator, plays a crucial role in hardening gel polish under UV light. While the EU adopts a hazard-based regulatory approach—focusing on a chemical’s inherent properties—the U.S. follows a risk-based model, considering both hazard and exposure likelihood. This divergence means TPO remains legal in the U.S., with no federal ban anticipated.
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Currently, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has no plans to ban TPO in gel nail polishes. Experts suggest that the U.S. regulatory framework, which evaluates both the hazard and the likelihood of exposure, does not view TPO as a significant risk under typical cosmetic use. However, some states may independently choose to align with Europe’s precautionary stance, potentially leading to localized restrictions. In the meantime, many brands are already reformulating their products to ensure global compliance, which could make TPO-free options more widely available in the U.S.
The ban has sparked debates within the beauty industry. Critics, including cosmetic chemists, argue that the decision lacks a scientifically justified risk assessment and could lead to unnecessary waste of safe products. On the other hand, proponents emphasize the importance of precautionary measures to protect public health.
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For consumers, the ban may lead to a shift toward TPO-free alternatives, which are already available and expected to grow in popularity. Nail salons across Europe will need to reformulate their offerings, potentially increasing costs. Meanwhile, U.S. consumers are left questioning the safety of their gel manicures.
Despite the controversy, experts reassure that TPO exposure in gel nail systems is minimal, as the chemical is cured into a solid matrix on the nail, limiting systemic absorption. For those concerned, regular nail polish or TPO-free gels offer safer alternatives.
This regulatory shift underscores the growing scrutiny of cosmetic ingredients and the need for global alignment in safety standards. As the beauty industry adapts, consumers are encouraged to stay informed and prioritize their health.
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